Discover Budget Gaming Wheels for Players New to Sim Racing

My current desk has four clamp marks on its front edge, one for each racing wheel I have owned. The first was a second-hand gear driven wheel that cost less than a new game and rattled like a washing machine. The last is a small direct drive base that I would have considered impossibly expensive a few years ago. Each step was an upgrade, but the honest truth is that the first wheel did the most to change how I raced. Going from a controller to any wheel is the big jump. Everything after that is refinement.

Here is what to look for in a budget gaming wheel, what to avoid, and how to spend a limited budget where it makes the biggest difference.

What you actually need

A sim racing setup has three parts: the wheel base, the wheel rim and the pedals. On entry level sets, the wheel and base usually come as one unit, with pedals included. Later, these become separate purchases.

For a first setup, you need:

A wheel with force feedback. Wheels without it exist and are very cheap, but they feel like toys and teach nothing about grip.
Pedals with at least throttle and brake. A clutch is a bonus, not a necessity.
Something solid to mount it on. A sturdy desk or table, or a foldable wheel stand.
Compatibility. Check the wheel works with your platform: PC, PlayStation or Xbox. Many wheels work with PC plus one console, not all three.

The three types of wheel base

Gear driven

The cheapest force feedback wheels use plastic gears between the motor and the wheel. They are noisy and the feedback feels notchy, especially in small movements. But they work, they last, and they are the most common first wheel. A popular gear driven model has been one of the best-selling wheels for many years, and second-hand ones are easy to find.

Belt driven

A belt between motor and wheel gives smoother, more detailed force feedback. Belt driven wheels cost more but feel noticeably better. For many people they are the sweet spot.

Direct drive

The wheel mounts straight onto the motor shaft. This gives the most detailed and responsive force feedback. Until a few years ago, direct drive bases were expensive and aimed at enthusiasts. Several manufacturers now sell entry level direct drive bases at prices overlapping mid range belt wheels, though you often need to buy the wheel rim and pedals separately.

Where to spend a small budget

If your budget is tight, here is the order I would prioritise, based on four wheels and a lot of conversations with league drivers.

Any force feedback wheel and pedals. Gear driven is fine. Second-hand is fine if it has been looked after.
A solid mount. A wheel that flexes on a wobbly desk loses much of its feel. A basic foldable wheel stand often helps more than a better wheel.
A load cell brake. Pedals that measure pressure instead of travel make braking more consistent, which is where lap time hides. Some brands sell load cell upgrade kits for their entry level pedals.
A better wheel base. Only after the above.

Many beginners do the opposite: buy the most expensive wheel they can afford with basic pedals and clamp it to a wobbly desk. They would often be faster with a cheaper wheel, a stand and better pedals. Our racecraft writer explains why braking matters so much in why online game racers practise braking points first.

Buying second-hand

Racing wheels are popular second-hand purchases because many people buy one, use it for a few months and move on. A few things to check:

Force feedback works smoothly in both directions, without clunks or dead spots.
Pedals return smoothly and the readings do not jump. Some sellers can show the pedal readings in the game or a calibration screen.
Clamps and mounting points are intact.
The power supply is included. Replacements can be hard to find.
Platform compatibility, especially for older models that may not support current consoles.

I bought my first wheel second-hand and it lasted three years before I sold it on again for about half what I paid. That is the hidden advantage of popular models: they hold their value, so the real cost of owning one for a few years is often surprisingly small.

Setting it up properly

A budget wheel set up well beats an expensive wheel set up badly. A few basics:

Seat position. Sit so your arms are slightly bent at the wheel and your legs reach the pedals without stretching. A gaming chair with castors will roll backwards under braking, so lock it, put it against a wall, or use a stand with a fixed seat.
Force feedback strength. Start moderate and avoid clipping, as explained in how force feedback changes the way players race online.
Calibration. Calibrate the pedals in the game so full travel equals full input.
Screen distance. Put the screen as close as practical behind the wheel, and set the field of view to match. A correct field of view makes judging speed and distance much easier.

Is a controller good enough?

Some fast online racers use controllers, especially in console games designed around them, and do very well. If you mainly play arcade racers, a controller is perfectly fine. But for simulation games and league racing, a wheel makes it easier to drive smoothly, feel grip and race consistently. Almost every driver in our league who switched from controller to wheel was faster within a month, and cleaner too.

My advice for a first wheel

Buy a reliable gear driven or belt driven wheel with force feedback, ideally second-hand if your budget is tight. Mount it solidly. Spend a few weeks learning to use it before deciding what to upgrade. When you do upgrade, think about pedals and mounting before chasing a more powerful wheel base. Then go and find a league, as described in finding an online racing league that suits your skill level. More equipment notes are in our Racing Gear section.